BINGEN — In spring, you can count on the Columbia River Gorge’s Coyote Wall trail network to dazzle the eyes with crowded carpets of yellow and purple wildflowers. In the heat of summer, Coyote Wall’s jagged, tilting grassland dries out into a furrowed plateau of glowing gold.
But when I went back in mid-September, what I found was a darkened, denuded landscape of exposed rock and mud. I caught faint whiffs of smoke. I’ve been here dozens of times over the past few years, but I barely recognized the place.